Jeep Armor and Protection Guide

Quick Answer

Every rock, stump, and trail obstacle is a potential threat to your Jeep undercarriage, body panels, and drivetrain components. Proper armor turns expensive damage into a minor scrape. This guide covers the essential protection upgrades from belly skid plates to rocker panel armor.

Installation Overview

Difficulty

Estimated Time

4-8 hours

Install Cost (Pro)

$400-$2500

Tools Needed

9 items

Skid Plates: Protecting Your Underbelly

The underside of your Jeep houses the engine oil pan, transmission, transfer case, fuel tank, and exhaust. A direct rock hit to any of these components can leave you stranded on the trail with a catastrophic fluid leak. Skid plates bolt underneath the vehicle to shield these components. The most critical skid plates are the engine/transmission skid (protects the oil pan and transmission housing), the transfer case skid (protects the T-case and crossmember), and the fuel tank skid (protects the fuel tank from puncture). Stock Jeep Wranglers come with lightweight plastic skid plates that provide minimal protection. Aftermarket steel or aluminum skid plates are 3-6mm thick and designed to slide over rocks rather than catch on them. Full underbody skid plate systems cover everything from the front bumper to the rear bumper, creating a smooth glide surface that reduces the chance of getting hung up on obstacles.

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Rock Sliders and Rocker Guards

The rocker panels (the body panels below the doors) are the lowest point of the Jeep body and the most frequently damaged area during off-road driving. Stock rocker panels are thin stamped steel that dents and tears easily on rocks. Rock sliders replace or cover the rocker panels with thick-wall steel tube or plate that protects the body and also serves as a step for getting in and out of lifted Jeeps. There are two main designs: bolt-on sliders that attach to the frame using factory mounting points, and weld-on sliders that are permanently welded to the frame for maximum strength. Bolt-on sliders are more popular because they can be installed at home and do not require a welder. Tube-style rock sliders use round or DOM tube and are lighter. Plate-style or trail armor sliders use flat steel plate for maximum surface area and sliding capability over rocks.

Fender Flares for Larger Tires

When you install larger tires on a Jeep, they often extend beyond the stock fenders, which is both aesthetically unfinished and potentially illegal in some states (tires must not extend past the fender in many jurisdictions). Aftermarket fender flares solve this by widening the fender opening to cover larger tires. Flat-style flares provide minimal coverage with a clean, modern look. They are popular on JK and JL Wranglers because they replace the stock flares without adding bulk. Pocket-style flares (the riveted or bolted look) add aggressive styling with wider coverage for extreme offsets. High-clearance or tube fenders completely replace the stock fenders with minimalist tube steel designs that provide maximum tire clearance and approach angle but leave the inner fender exposed to mud and debris.

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Differential Covers and Guards

The differential housings on Dana 30, 35, and 44 axles sit low on the axle tubes and are exposed to rock impacts. A stock differential cover is thin stamped steel that can crack or puncture on a hard hit, draining the gear oil and destroying the differential gears. Heavy-duty differential covers are cast from thick aluminum or machined from billet steel, providing significantly more impact resistance. Some designs include fins for improved gear oil cooling and a drain plug for easier maintenance. Differential guards (also called diff skids) are separate steel plates that bolt over the differential cover to take the impact instead of the cover itself. They are available for both front and rear axles and are one of the most cost-effective protection upgrades for any off-road Jeep.

Corner Guards and Body Armor

Corner guards protect the rear quarter panels, which are impossible to unbolt and replace because they are welded into the body structure. A dent or tear in a quarter panel requires expensive body work or panel replacement. Bolt-on corner guards cover the most vulnerable area with thick steel and also add a mounting point for additional lighting or recovery points. Full body armor kits include corner guards, rocker guards, cowl guards (to protect the windshield frame area), and sometimes A-pillar guards. These are primarily designed for Jeeps that regularly navigate tight trails with dense vegetation and rocky obstacles. For overlanding and expedition-style builds, consider adding front and rear fender armor, windshield protection bars, and a full-length roof rack that doubles as rollover protection.

Installation Steps

Difficulty: 2/5 | Time: 4-8 hours

Tools Required

Floor jack and jack standsSocket set (metric and SAE)Torque wrenchPenetrating oil (PB Blaster)Drill with metal bits (for some brackets)Ratchet extensions (6" and 12")Wire brushThread locker (blue Loctite)Pry bar or flat screwdriver
  1. 1

    Remove factory splash guards and skid plates

    Lift the vehicle and secure on jack stands. Spray all factory skid plate and splash guard bolts with penetrating oil and let soak 15 minutes. Remove the factory plastic belly pan and any factory skid plates. Clean the frame mounting points with a wire brush to remove rust and dirt. Keep the factory hardware — some aftermarket skid plates reuse factory bolt locations.

  2. 2

    Install engine and transmission skid plate

    Position the engine/transmission skid plate under the vehicle and align with the factory mounting holes. Most aftermarket skid plates use the same bolt pattern as the factory parts. Start all bolts hand-tight before torquing to the manufacturer specification. Verify the skid plate does not contact the oil pan, exhaust, or any moving components. Check for adequate clearance around the front driveshaft.

  3. 3

    Install transfer case skid plate

    Slide the transfer case skid plate into position behind the transmission skid. Align mounting holes with the frame crossmember. Install and torque all bolts per the manufacturer instructions. Ensure the skid plate sits flush against the frame rails with no gaps that could catch on rocks. Verify the rear driveshaft has full range of motion without contact.

  4. 4

    Install rock sliders

    Remove the factory pinch weld covers or plastic rocker trim. Position the rock slider against the frame and body mount locations. Bolt-on sliders typically use 4-6 mounting points per side. Start with the front mount, align the slider level, then install remaining bolts. Torque all mounting hardware to specification with thread locker. Verify the slider does not interfere with door opening or closing.

  5. 5

    Install fender flares

    Remove factory fender flares by unscrewing the mounting clips and bolts along the fender edge. Clean the fender lip area of dirt and old adhesive. Position new flares and mark any additional holes that need to be drilled. Drill pilot holes, install mounting hardware, and secure flares. Most aftermarket flares include rubber gaskets or foam tape to prevent vibration and water intrusion between the flare and body panel.

  6. 6

    Install differential covers and guards

    Drain the differential fluid by removing the factory cover bolts starting from the top. Clean the axle housing mating surface with a scraper and solvent. Apply a thin bead of RTV silicone to the new heavy-duty cover, position it, and install bolts in a star pattern. Torque to the manufacturer specification. Refill with the correct weight gear oil (75W-140 synthetic is common for Dana 44). Install diff guards over the new covers if your kit includes them.

  7. 7

    Final inspection and test

    Lower the vehicle and perform a visual inspection of all armor components. Check that all bolts are tight, no components interfere with steering or suspension travel, and all panels sit flush. Drive over a speed bump or uneven terrain to listen for rattles or contact. Re-torque all bolts after 100 miles of driving as they may settle.

Frequently Asked Questions

What skid plates do I need for off-roading?

At minimum, an engine/transmission skid and a fuel tank skid. For serious trail use, add a transfer case skid and a full belly pan. Steel is stronger and cheaper. Aluminum is lighter but more expensive.

Are rock sliders necessary?

If you drive any trail with rocks, roots, or ruts that can contact the rocker panels, rock sliders pay for themselves the first time they save a body panel. They also serve as convenient steps for entering and exiting lifted Jeeps.

Steel or aluminum armor — which is better?

Steel is stronger, heavier, and cheaper. Aluminum is lighter (40-50% weight savings) and does not rust, but costs more and deforms more on impact. For most trail Jeeps, steel is the practical choice. For weight-sensitive overlanding builds, aluminum is worth the premium.

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